Our eating tour of Israel

I’m a bit behind on our blog posts, so this one is coming to you a few weeks behind.  As I write this, I’m sitting in a remote cabin in Iceland, looking out at the ocean and mountains, as the wind howls and flurries of snow come and go.  But more on that later.

If you’ve been following the news lately, you’ve probably heard mention of the issues going on along the Gaza strip.  It’s an unfortunate situation, and I’m sympathetic for all those who have been affected.  The juxtaposition of our “eating tour” through Israel, while that situation was happening is not lost on me.  That said, I think it’s important to highlight the fact that life in Israel during times of conflict continues as normally as it can (I can’t comment on Gaza as we didn’t visit there).  Like all places, if you form your view of a country based solely on what you read in the news it will be distorted towards the sensational, rather than the experience of an average tourist.  So I hope this post gives a view of what it’s like to visit Israel for those who haven’t been, and some good food spots for those who may be going soon.

As a somewhat observant Jew, I only eat Kosher meat.  In Toronto this can be limiting at times, but in Israel an entire world of exciting new possibilities opens up (so if you’re wondering how someone can be excited about eating Burger King, this is the reason).

Israel is a country of immigrants.  Each group that has made Aliyah to the country has brought with them the culinary traditions of their home country.  This includes cuisine from Morocco, Eastern Europe, Iraq, Tunisia, Ethiopia, Yemen, North America, Italy, France, the list goes on.  As a result, some claim that Israeli food is really a mashup of the flavours of other countries.  I think that’s probably true, but there are some dishes that Israel has become known for like falafel, shwarma, sabich, fruit shakes among others.  There’s a reason that they are known for these dishes, they nail it.  As we tasted their take on Asian cuisine the results were more mixed, but still enjoyable.

Part of what makes the food in Israel so delicious, is the fresh local ingredients that are available.  The produce in Israel, is much better than what we get in Canada, because it doesn’t have to be shipped in from far away.  When you eat an Israeli salad in Canada (cucumber, tomato and parsely) it is never the same, because the cucumber lacks the flavourful sweet taste that an Israeli cucumber has.  I’m now sold on the buy local food movement.

Debbie and I also had the pleasure of celebrating Passover in Israel this year.  In Canada, that generally means a week of mediocre food, craving bread and pastries and the overall feeling that you’re on the Atkin’s diet without the weight loss because of all the candy and chips you shove in your mouth to compensate.  Passover in Israel is about as far away from this experience as it is from Iceland.  We ate out at restaurants almost every day, as I frequently questioned how it was possible that this was Passover food.  We ate fish and chips, McDonald’s chicken nuggets, shwarma, waffles, and sandwiches on a bun (yes a Passover bun – not quite what they ate during the exodus but hey, when in Jerusalem!)

After Passover, our indulgence continued, and a serious chunk of our trip was spent eating, watching Netflix and getting late starts in the morning.  Debbie is a big foodie so this is her idea of a great trip, I can’t lie, I enjoyed it too.

We did some non-eating activities too – Dead Sea, Masada, Yad Vashem, Mount Hertzl etc., I’ve sprinkled some of those pictures in the album too.  We also had the chance to meet up with my cousin Beca, who lives in Jerusalem and go for some Tunisian food and craft beer afterwards – great to see you Beca! All in all, it was great to live a bit like locals in Israel, and have a chance to relax after our intense trip to Africa.

A few food highlights for those planning a visit:

Tel Aviv

  1. Hakosem – Amazing falafel and shwarma, best we ate.  Shout out to Debbie’s friend Andrew for the recco.
  2. Ca Phe Hanoi – Israeli take on Vietnamese.  My first Pho, and Banh Mi. Wow, I’ve been missing out.
  3. Burger King – My first whopper, epic.
  4. Memphis Burger – Better quality than Burger King, but somehow not as exciting for me.
  5. Bucke Cafe – Great breakfast, decent Shakshukah.
  6. Fish and Chips place in Carmel Market

Jerusalem

  1. Dan Jerusalem Hotel – 8 course meal fot the Passover seder was probably the best meal I’ve ever had, and the buffet in the morning.  Stay at the Dan for Passover just to eat,
  2. Coffizz – Decent cappucino for five shekels, pastries for the same.
  3. Aroma – Same as #2 if you want better quality and are willing to pay more.
  4. Juice/Shake bars – Pomegrante – unreal.  Also tried the shakes with dates and pecans, also good.

 

 

 

Passover in Jerusalem

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Burning my Chametz with a Haredi Jewish community in Jerusalem.

 

Yesterday we arrived in Jerusalem after spending a couple of nights recovering from Africa in Tel Aviv.  This is my third time in Jerusalem and Debbie’s first visit, but this visit carries a special significance.  Tonight is the first night of Passover, for our non-Jewish friends, this is a holiday that signifies the exodus of the Jewish people from slavery in Egypt during biblical times.  There is a custom on this holiday at the end of the seder (the large festive meal/ceremony), whereby Jews proclaim that the next year should be spent in Jerusalem; hence the significance of the visit.

More simplistically, Passover carries with it some very stringent dietary restrictions; one cannot eat anything that is leavened aka bread.  In Toronto, this means cooking at home for 8 days straight for us, which is always a mission.  As we were planning our trip we were trying to figure out where to spend Passover, and we figured Jerusalem made a lot of sense, as there a tons of restaurants here catering to this dietary restriction.  So much so, that as I searched for my typical last coffee and bagel this morning before the holiday begins, it was nowhere to be found!  I settled for a cappuccino and day old pastry I had saved.

On Passover, or Pesach as the members of the tribe call it, there’s another custom to burn all of your chametz (leavened products). I haven’t typically done this in the past in Toronto, but when in Jerusalem I figured I’d live as a local.  So this morning as I walked down the street from our Airbnb, I followed the scent of smoke, until I came across this large group of observant Jews burning their bread and thought I’d join them.  It was a very cool experience and I’m happy I took the walk.

To all of our Jewish friends, have a Chag Sameach.  To everyone else, have a Happy Easter or at least a great long weekend!